Luxor may be the Egyptian city of light, but we doubt it’s ever been illuminated by fork chandeliers such as those found in Mario Fritolli’s new solo restaurant. Shiroganedai is no slouch when it comes to style, but the glowing Lucite column filled with plates that we found in the entrance to this swank spot told us that, though the sushi plates may be on the walls and the forks suspended overhead, Frittoli’s tongue is securely in his cheek when it comes to design. Passing through the bar, we took our table and tried to see the light when it came to choosing between a tantalizing selection of modern Italian cuisine. Hailing from Lombardi, Fritolli has balanced nods to traditional regional dishes with fresh twists on the familiar.

We opted to start simply with a classic salad of S. Daniele ham with buffalo mozzarella and rucola salad (¥1,700), while we sipped an excellent ’98 Costasera Amarone (¥13,000). Our primi piatti made up for our simple, yet good, start with an intriguing combination of gnocchi with a sweet Gorgonzola sauce and desiccated pear and mixed fruits (¥1800). Blue cheese has a natural affinity for fruit and nuts, and the light creamy sauce was an excellent complement to the gnocchi. Made from organic potatoes, the dumplings were soft clouds that just melted on the tongue. We were a little disappointed that our companion’s tagliolini in a Maine lobster and tomato cream sauce (¥2,400) was even tastier. The rich sauce infused with brandy elevated the handmade noodles far beyond our expectations for a simple pasta dish.

Being generous souls, we decided to share our secondi piatti—a cunning ploy to enable us to sample both the meat and fish dishes on offer. First we tried the Tuscan wild boar (¥3,200), which had been slow simmered in Chianti before being grilled on an open fire. It came with a flavorful dark sauce made from the reduced wine and meat juices, and chestnuts and grilled polenta. However, with the arrival of our fricassee of monkfish with a light porcini cream sauce and foie gras (¥3,400), we found the evening’s winner. The combination of firm white fish and the velvety goose liver with the slightly earthy sauce married land and sea perfectly. There’s no doubt that this is a dish we’ll want to order again.

While we waited for our dessert of chocolate cake with pistachio sauce and saffron ice cream (¥1,000)—another solid combination of complementary tastes—we sneaked a glance at the snazzy clientele. Word has it that the ladies who lunch have a soft spot for the day menu, but from what we could see dinner was a mixed affair of couples and groups. We capped things off with coffee (¥500) and digestifs—including a refill to apologize for the slightly erratic service. Luxor is a shining example that Italian doesn’t have to mean overcooked penne and dry pizza; rather, it pushes a modern yet authentic Italianato menu firmly into the spotlight.